Best Pizza

Barcelona's pizza scene arrived late and improved fast. The first wave of serious Neapolitan-certified kitchens established the baseline; the second wave — younger chefs, longer fermentation times, more interesting toppings — pushed the category into territory that now holds up against the best in Italy. What separates the serious operations in this collection from the generic wood-fired pizza on every tourist street is sourcing: the flour, the fior di latte, the tomatoes. Several of the restaurants here have won international recognition for their dough specifically. That is a specific kind of obsession, and it produces a specific kind of result.

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